London Fashion Week Men AW18
By 55's Fashion Editor Sara Darling
Every January just as I am getting over the excess of Christmas I know I am in for a double treat as January brings not doom and gloom but a whole new season of clothes and lots of pretty boys to look at.
Even though London Fashion Week Mens has had a rebrand (now known affectionately as LFWM) it seemed to have had a bit of its stuffing knocked out of it as the big players were nowhere to be seen. But there was still plenty of what London does best- twisted tailoring and lots of personality.
Burberry shows a joint mens and womens collection in February, and there was no sign of the Savile Row tailoring, Chester Barrie, Richard James, Agi and Sam and Harrys of London were noticeably missing. But it did have authentic Northern Soul dancing, Craig Green’s sculptural human kite, and dancing on ice, so I guess that’s just fashion progress!
Choosing key looks, is me choosing my favourites, so these are the trends that I am hoping any man worth any fashion kudos will be dipping into next AW.
Real men will be wearing knits, shearling, corduroy and velvet!!! The leaders of the pack are JW Anderson, who went oversized gran knit- chic! Using crochet for backpacks and overcoats with crochet sleeves; Astrid Andersen indulged in street knits, fusing Argyle patterns with classic polo shirts (metallic robe optional). And if you fancy stocking up for any extracurricular outdoors activities, take note of winter woolies specialists, Band of Outsiders, whose models ice danced at Somerset House.
Vivienne Westwood, E Tautz and Oliver Spencer are the go to names for cord, keep it dainty and not not jumbo- there is no need to reference your cheesy raver days! But of course, Westwood has added a punk twist.
Oliver Spencer as usual showed on his celebrity friends and my jey picks are the snazzy velvet bombers- perfect for bringing a dash of dandy to your daywear. Velvet took main stage at Casely-Hayford too- if you are in the market for patterned velvet trousers or shirts, you will make a statement at the Christmas party in these. Even designers on the edgier scale, Liam Hodges and Alex Mullins introduced a splash of the luxe fabric in their collections,
Streetwear is always going to be big for boys. Matthew Miller and YMC do their own version for grown up boys ranging from burnt orange to darker hues. And Maharishi added African-inspired print to his military looks, whilst Tinie Tempah's second collection for What We Wear, is perfect for men who like to glow. In day glow!
Craig Green has been on the tip of the fash pack tongue for several season’s now, and his latest collection consisted of highly technical fabrics and sportswear looks, including denim pants, worker-wear jackets and ribbed windbreakers.
Christopher Raeburn is a man who knows his customer, and although his collections are always highly wearable, this season was mostly bright orange. Inspired by the sea rescue service, this ultimately became a lot more street- unless you count the lobster mittens, which might be too Shoreditch for some.
With more emerging talent showcasing, Daniel W Fletcher is one to watch. This season, he celebrated what it means to be young, male and British. Concentrating on classic schoolboy staples of the seventies like the Mackintosh, he added wrestling singlets and extra-clingy cycling shorts.
For the more flamboyant, Wales Bonner is the designer to know. Working a collection inspired by Afro-American artist Jacob Lawrence, her deconstructed sportswear and tailored suiting was simplistic, yet luxuriously beautiful.
Tourne de Transmission showcased their first ever runway show which provided laid back layers perfect for skater boys; Whereas WoodWood offered a unisex presentation, perfect for a transition into adulthood. With classic American youth culture references such as varsity jackets, double denim and slogan tops, the result was perfectly normcore.
Fashion Week wouldn't be fashion week without heritage brand Belstaff. Always decadently British, this season saw plenty of army surplus-style over coats styled with hoodies and lots of leather. The collection as a whole not just for bikers, but took inspiration from mods, punks, rockers and skins- and was a mash up of subcultures. This year is also a landmark year for the brand, which is celebrating the 70th anniversary of its iconic four-pocket Trialmaster jacket. Here's to another 70 years.
By Sara Darling
THE SUMMER OF LOVE IS BECKONING AT LOVE INTERNATIONAL
Try and forget the January blues by looking forward to a summer of love, and preferably dancing under the stars, somewhere hot!
And if you need any inspiration, the hippest festival on the block is the three year old, Love International Festival in Croatia, which has risen from the ashes and replaced the infamous Garden Festival, which dominated the summer dance scene on the Dalmation Coast for a decade.
With the summer 18 lineup just announced, Love International is the ideal place to come to relax all day and play all night. The week long event means you can socialise, sunbathe and party as little as much as you want, and you don’t even have to stay in a tent! There is plenty of private and hotel accommodation off site, so you can freshen up, and get fresh!
The festival caters for over 2 thousand international party goers, and your weekly (or daily) wristband means you can enter as many times as you like.
And as it situated right on the coastline, it is the ideal location to grab a lounger and get your sunbathing in, whilst listening to chill out tunes in the day, and as the sun sets, the pace livens up and you can get your groove on to the some of the world’s best dance DJs.
With the Beach Bar on the waters edge, Main Stage and Olive Bar all showcasing bands and music, you can easily switch it up, depending on what kind of action you feel like, but it is the Beach Bar which carries on the party until the early hours- a dip in the sea optional!
This is ideal for people who like a good time- whether you like disco, jazz, classical, soul or breakbeat, the organisers have sourced a little bit of everything; Along with the best of house and techno; This year sees festival faves Four Tet, Horse Meat Disco, Crazy P Soundsystem, Rub N Tug, The Unabombers, Heidi Lawden showcasing throughout the week. As it's such an intimate venue, you are likely to meet them party with the rest of the crowd too!
At least one afternoon boat party is a must, as well as the after parties at Barbarellas, where you never who you will meet on the coach to the venue!
Can you tell I’m addicted?! See you under the stars.
Weds 27th June – Weds 4th July 2018
@ The Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, 22240, Tisno, Croatia
Standard tickets are £135 + booking fee for the week
Club nights and boat parties are extra
www.loveinternationalfestival.com / @LoveIntFestival
Photo credits: Carys Huws and Khris Cowley
By Sara Darling
FASHION FOR GIRLS
The Nude London is an emerging label by friends Angelina and Julia which was founded in 2016. Coming from different design approaches, the label delicately fuses these aesthetics, and takes on board the international influences that the both bring to the brand.
Julia studied at King’s College, Queens Mary University and ESMOD Paris, whereas Angelina honed her skills at Moscow state University and Waseda University in Japan, and they both travelled extensively before settling in London.
It was the quest for the perfect floaty dress that led them to start the label, and plans for the future are bricks and mortar stores.
The SS18 collection is a range of flirty, feminine dresses and separates with added sass. Taking inspiration from Chloe, Prada and Dior, these girls are definitely going to be the go-to girls for RTW.
Shop the collection here
By Sara Darling
THE IDEAL PARTNER FOR A CITY BREAK OR FLY N FLOP!
As a globetrotter, I need some sturdy, yet stylish luggage, and I am in love with my Eastpak goodies that have accompanied me on several adventures around the world.
Whatever the reason for my trip- whether I'm off on a ski adventure to Canada, or have a weekend break in Ibiza, I have a trusty Eastpak which fits the bill.
Thankfully they are all lightweight, hardwearing and practical, the zipper innards make packing easy, and the funky patterns stand out like a beacon on the conveyor belt. Nobody is going to mistake mine! They make rucksacks too.
Choosing a suitcase is kind of like choosing a car if you trot about as much as I do, so I'm pretty proud of my arm candy, every time I use it- did I mention I made thirteen countries this year?
It's also my dream case for my styling gigs. Big enough for PR pulls, and light enough to cart upstairs. What's not to love?? And you get a thirty year guarantee.
Don't get jealous, just get shopping here
Sale on now!
Thank me later.
Review: Darling George
JOIN THE GLITTER BRIGADE AT SOHO'S COMPTON CROSS COCKTAIL BAR AND CABARET
Its the season to wear excess tinsel, drink prosecco through straws and sing loudly at complete strangers right? Actually that could be every Wednesday and Sunday at London's hidden cabaret gem, The Compton Cross on Old Compton Street.
Welcome to the world of in yer face cabaret!
Old Compton Street has a mighty reputation- for good reason! Amazing bars, 24 hour food places, and a colourful clientele to keep your eyeballs on stalks.
Never mind the fact my eyeballs are constantly on stalks, the temptation of watching a drag queen on a school night got me even more excitable than usual!
Even though I live in Brighton, I have seen very few drag acts, but I took my bessie friend, to the Compton Cross bar in Soho, who is a drag queen pro!
The pub is a fairly small venue with lots of high bars stools, and we were lucky enough to get seats with a view, and manage to order two berry mojitos, a ridiculously large pizza and a bottle of prosecco before the show began!
Perhaps that was my downfall, as I got giggly at everything that our hostess Cosmic said! Dressed to kill in sequins, she shimmered and commanded the whole room with banter and song; No-one escaped her gentle heckling, and some who knew what they were letting themselves in for, gave as good as they got!
Lo-betide any latecomers, who after all would want to miss any of this show? Everyone was welcome, but introductions were necessary. Expect banter, sing- a-longs and lots of more-ish cocktails. You’ll definitely bond with your neighbour- whether that's by cringing or patting them on the back!
It's the perfect place for a Christmas party. Gawd only knows what mischief will occur on NYE! I'll be back- if they will let me me.
Book your table here and prepare to laugh your socks or stockings off!
2 Old Compton St, Soho, London W1D 4TA
Open today · 11am–12am
Phone: 020 7734 4986
By Sara Darling
WHEN THE BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY OF THE PHILIPINNES CAME TO WESTFIELD to let people know more about it, it was certainly a riot of colour and entertainment.
Taking place over five days, Westfield Shepherds Bush was transformed into a tropical paradise, with high energy fashion shows, music, Filipino food and a champion bartender, proving that it definitely is "more fun in the Philippines".
Along with daily catwalk shows showcasing traditional fashions by acclaimed designer Renee Salud, the crowd was wooed by original Filipon dances by the Lahing Kayumanggi Dance Company, and had access to films, local food and hammocks to really get into the mood.
With a varied culture and traditions, I can confirm that the Philipinnes is a country with lots to offer for the adventure seeker, and even Conde Nast Traveller has voted the island of Palawan to be the most beautiful in the world. Although if you prefer something a little bit more low key, there are 7000 more to choose from!
You can fly directly to Manilla from London, and are pretty much guaranteed sunshine- this should definitely be on your next destination hit list.
Article: Christopher George
Benjamin Clementine has just released the new video for his latest 6Music-supported single ‘Jupiter’, lifted from his critically acclaimed new album, I Tell A Fly.
Jupiter was inspired by a US visa describing him as an 'alien'. Says Benjamin; “Saying ‘Jupiter’ for me was like saying ‘Europa’, or ‘England’, or ‘Edmonton’. Wandering around in America, there was Trump and Clinton, there was the Orlando attack, the New Orleans attack - here I was thinking I was living in a safe place, but nothing was really safe anymore, or ever. It’s a poke at people being called aliens by some people, like we’re from another planet. I think we’re all forever aliens”.
UK + European headline Tour inc. Brixton Academy, December 5
BY SARA DARLING
Streetwear brand Dark Circle is no stranger to making hoodies for the cool kids. So when a super toastie, art collab hoodie landed on my desk, I gave myself a smug grin! It's not often the two cross over, and I do like to wear my heart on my sleeve (or in this case my back).
With the brand's ethos to create timeless pieces that make a statement, it is no wonder that they collaborated with urban, hyper realist artist (and special effects guru) Schoony, who is renowned for exploring bureaucratic zeitgeist in his works, as well as making a not so subtle political statement.
The dream team came together in association with Woodbury House Art- a unique art concept which has no gallery space, but still manages to bring art to the masses. They clearly saw a gap in the market for the Y generation of politically astute art lovers,
The result is a trio of Schoony's artworks 'Butterfly Kiss', 'Boy Solider' and 'Bruiser' which have been scanned onto the reverse of a limited edition range of T Shirts and hoodies in the form of a graphic photograph.
The iconic life cast sculpture, ‘Boy Soldier’ was first revealed outside the houses of parliament as an anti-war protest in 2008, and is still as relevant today. So if this is something that you feel strongly about, get involved and make a statement. After all 'God chooses no sides'.
The t-shirt and hoodie Dark Circle x Schoony x Woodbury House collection will be available through darkcircleclothing.com
For more information on Woodburyhouse Art or Schoony, check out their websites here:
After his recent sold-out solo show in Brazil, Hayashi brings to London his latest works, a series of paintings that reflect the conflicts experienced by the individual living in contemporary society, exploring the struggles and the strength needed to survive in this giant metropolitan landscape.
Helped by his unconventional and almost accidental technique, Hayashi’s large-scale pieces hold colossal shapes and form arising from great masses of paint. Ink is added and paint is removed or shaped by his hand, creating volume, tone and texture. The anthropomorphic figures resulting from this process remain in a frozen and violent harmony, holding all tension in an instant where Hayashi’s energy outbreaks.
During the creation of this works the artist discovered how his canvases reflect the fluidity of human relationships and the brief, superficial sensations of today humans exposed in Zygmunt Bauman’s work. As an analogy of life, the gigantic figures are nothing but “Liquids” in a Liquid Modernity but also liquid as a river stream that flows slow and continues his path turning bulky and ferocious. Hayashi’s life stream is not different from this river and his work evolves parallel to it, gaining body and speed, liquidity and plasticity.
Cai Quo Quiang, Francis Bacon, Yang Shaobin or Oswaldo Guayasamín are usually named as Hayashi’s influences, but is São Paulo and the rare lifestyle of this city what ultimately shapes the soul behind his work. The tribal fights of the Brazilian Indians “Huka Huka” and other similar rituals like the Indian “Kushti”, considered sacred for centuries, helped Hayashi shape these colossi that have become a way of exuding the tension accumulated in the biggest city of the American Continent.
OPENING 2ND NOVEMBER
4 GARDEN WALK EC2A 3EQ
BY SARA DARLING
It's time to start thinking of Christmas gifts. For you or your loved ones..
And what could be better than the gift of time?
Heritage brand, Timex, was founded in 1854, and knows a thing or two about classic timepieces.
This winter they have launched the Easy Reader 40th Anniversary Collection, which is the original face from 1977, with interchangeable leather straps, which brings the arm candy smack bang up to date.
Whether you are a fan of gold or silver, the unisex watch has a face and strap to match your look. Perfect for everyday, and virtually indestructable.
The signature INDIGLO® dial is a special anniversary edition, so you can show off your watch as well as your time keeping skills. Or make someone else just as happy!
Shop yours here from £44.99