Review: Christopher George
LONDON FASHION WEEK MENS Came to town and did not disappoint.
This season we had an expressive arrangement of designers pushing narratives within their collections, as well as gender identity being a big part of the question on the cat walk.
Loose and easy fitting designs seemed to be a trend that is holding fast we are please to see at 55HQ.
Our modern man want room to breath, move around more freely, and be able to wear some items more feminine. We are fans of this approach and are never afraid to cross the dress code, and share items from both the male and female wardrobe.
We chose 5 designers to emphasise the diversity coming through for SS19.
Romantic sensibilities are seen through exaggerated and amphorous silhouettes, flowing tulle and hints of opulent costume. The dream-like and fantastical decadent patterns, castle-like ruffles and their signature use of pearls in accessories. The collection has a clear and precise message in its defiance of sociological binary norms and aims to be gender-fluid, cross-cultural and unafraid of self-expression.
Having loved the brand since its brith, 55 are alwasy first in the line to get access to Phoebe's shows. This season a mix form men remains utilitarian with block colours and tonal breaks. Loose is the way to dress for men as we are seeing across fashion. A direction taken by Pheobe to a more sports asociation, waxed cotton, textured shirting, waffle linen, bridal tulle, denim dense linen and light cottons; what is not to fall in love with yet again from this talented designer.
Inspired by a desert at dusk, the pleasure of exploration, synthetic strobe lights, the eerie lull of a London dawn. The collection was sharp with block colours and visually textured fabrics, creating movement, graphic contrasts and a dramatic presence. Working with volume and strapping, the BERTHOLD brand is really making a mark on mens fashion.
NEW & LINGWOOD at St James's
This heritage English brands celebration of men’s style, creativity and craftsmanship which took place in the heart of St James’s. With this seasons usa of zesty colours and a more loose tailoring for a simpler casual but smart look. New & Lingwood’s Jermyn Street store offers an informal service for a bespoke look away from the exclusivity usually surrounds London Fashion Week Men’s.
Outdoorsy but not, easy-wear slick trash and flames with everything. Inspired by Donna Tartt novel The Goldfinch, Hodges new collection SS19 hovers between the eclectic and trash of the urban misguided youth dossing around Las Vegas. A mix of styles coming together from leopard prints, Hawaiian shirts and cowboy boots creating a slant on alternative dress and a relaxed but quirky approach.