Fashion Editor: Savannah Barthorpe Fashion Scout showcase the London based Eponymous brand Tolu Coker , as the winner of the AW19 coveted Merit Award. Created in 2009, the new talent initiative is worth £20,000 across three seasons and has been created to support and develop new designer businesses on a global level. Unisex fashion brand Tolu Coker, centres her designs around inclusivity, diversity and social responsibility. More than just a fashion label, it serves as a creative outlet for the youthful expression of political reform, changing social and economic climates and new emerging identities. Tolu aims to showcase her identity throughout her work by embracing dual heritage and cultures. She does this by reconstructing the black identity within the western world by adding personal prints, embellishments and personal old polaroid photos of her family. Reworked denims, recycled leathers and re-used plastic and lace scraps are paired alongside striking and daring silhouettes, bold illustrative prints/embroideries and a playground of textures to add a youthful,contemporary and luxurious flair to each piece. The young designer was recently shortlisted as a finalist in the ASOS Fashion Discovery 2018, and is a triple- award winner of the globally-acclaimed ITS 2018, where she took home a hat trick of awards acrossboth Fashion and Artwork categories - The Diesel Award, The Vogue Talents Award and The ITS Time For Coffee Award.
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Article: Christopher George Photography: Simon Armstrong Pam Hogg AW19 collection hits the London catwalk with its usual splendour and rock fantastic attitude. This season we see a range of cutting edge tailoring from the queen or pattern cutting, acid colours and belted restraints. A more wearable collection for AW19, but still punching a POW in visual terms, along with belted bondage strapping, studs and leather crafted superbly bringing together a dynamic and slick season to come. Pam Hogg
Editorial: Christopher George Autumn/Winter 2019-20, Paul Costelloe shows his mastery of tailoring. With striking, military inspired coats in pure Italian wool, they lead a collection full of rich colour, reminiscent of the Tsars. Opulent, mill-engineered velvet corduroy with a lavish handle, in autumnal shades of gold and claret, add to an array of flower strewn day to evening pieces, including pencil skirts with over-sized Aran knitwear, day dresses in subtle woven patterns and aristocratic inspired long, billowing gowns, fit for a princess. In the true style of Costelloe, the collection is feminine yet bold and powerful. Harping back to a more glamorous time while still being modern for todays woman.
Article: Christopher George Photography: Simon Armstrong Magpies & Peacocks non profit design house has spent eight years promoting sustainability in design and diverting post-consumer textiles from landfill. Now storming into 2019 with its unique, zero waste up-cycled collections. Rene Garza for Magpies & Peacocks created entirely out of waste textiles collected and curated by M&Ps, including end-of-life linens, bolts ends, scrap fabrics, dead-stock and used clothing. Magpies & Peacocks is a Houston, Texas based non-profit design house (501c3) dedicated to the collection, curation, and sustainable reuse of post consumer/industrial textiles, to disrupt the cycle of waste in the fashion industry. The organisation collaborates with designers and artists to create unique up-cycled, zero-waste collections and small batch re-manufactured products directed at creating conscious consumers; provides a resource library of reusable material for the creative community; offers skill building and sustainability education; and incubates circular fashion innovation.
     EDITORIAL TEAM
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM Stylists: Johanna Qvist ( @ johannaaqvist), Julia Mauro (@juliamauro), Brianna Serio (@bri_serio) Hair: Johanna Qvist, Brianna Serio Makeup: Brianna Serio Photographer: Raphael Aghahan (@visualperception_2015) Model: Julia Austin (@julialynnaustin) Stockests Oasis www.oasis-stores.com Marks & Spencers www.marksandspencer.com Top Shop www.topshop.com H&M www2.hm.com/en_us/index.html Miss Selfridge www.missselfridge.com ZARA www.zara.com/uk PRIMARK www.primark.com MANGO shop.mango.com Reservedwww.reserved.com  Jacket- Zara £50 Skirt- Zara £19 Dress Reserved £30 Pants- Reserved £19  Shirt- Zara £29 Pants- H&M £15 -- Jacket- Topshop £39 Top- Camaieu £20 Shorts- Topshop £20 Skirt- Dorothy Perkins £28  Blouse- H&M £20.99 Skirt- Stradivarius £15.99 Scarf- New Look £12.99 -- Blouse- H&M £29.99 Dress- Lipsy London £52 Pants- New Look £19.99 Boots- Office £29.99  Shirt- Forever 21 £15 Sweater- Zara Man £43 Cape- Armani Exchange £190 Shorts- Mango £24 Sunglasses- Topshop £25  Shirt- Forever 21 £15 Sweater- Zara Man £43 Cape- Armani Exchange £190 Shorts- Mango £24 Sunglasses- Topshop £25 -- Jacket- Zara £50 Skirt- Zara £19 Dress Reserved £30 Pants- Reserved £19  Jacket- River Island £39.99 Top- Topshop £30.99 Pants- Zara £29.99 Sunglasses- Primark £7.99 -- Jumpsuit- New Look £25.19 Jacket- Zara £79.99 Belt- Far Fetch £145 Shoes- H&M £19.99  EDITORIAL TEAM
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM Photographer: Roxy Herve Instagram: @roxy.herve Styling Team: Alexa Hoffman Instagram: @alexahoff Cherine Guenfoud Instagram: @cherine_guen Kim Hoang Instagram: @avantcouture Logan Wiley Instagram: @loganashby_ Makeup Artist: Esther Oltilie Website: https://www.estheroltilie.co.uk Instagram: @estheroltilie Model: Arianna Unity Hargrave Website: https://www.arianneunityhargrave.com Instagram: @arianneunity STOKLIST: Zara, https://www.zara.com H&M, https://www.hm.com Topshop, http://www.topshop.com Mango, http://www.mango.com Camaieu, https://www.camaieu.fr/ Stradivarius, https://www.stradivarius.com New Look, https://www.newlook.com Lipsy London, https://www2.next.co.uk/shop/genderwomencategory-dresses/brand-lipsy Off white, https://www.farfetch.com Off white, https://www.off---white.com Armani, https://www.armani.com The Sixteens evokes a sense of flamboyancy and glamour with satins and winter brights while maintaining a tailored edge. It is heavily inspired by glam rock culture, when British youth were navigating the transition between the idyllic and idealistic 60’s to the more confrontational economic downturn of the 70’s. The era became about dancing your teenage worries away in your glittered-up faces and shaggy fur coats. But life goes on. Glam rock became an escape for these British youth  FLORAL JAQUARD BLAZER, £65.00, TOPSHOP. DARK GREEN FAUX FUR COLLAR, £14.99, NEW LOOK.  GREEN SINGLE BREASTED FORMAL COAT, £34.99, NEW LOOK. PALE BLUE SHAGGY FAUX FUR COAT, £54.99, NEW LOOK. TWISTED LOGO BELT, £22.00, TOPSHOP. LAYERED NECKLACE, £13.50, TOPSHOP. PAGE 4: SATIN ASYMMETRIC TUNIC £42.00, TOPSHOP. BODY CHAIN, £20.00, TOPSHOP.  OVERSIZED SUIT JACKET, £69.00, TOPSHOP. LAYERED NECKLACE, £12.50, TOPSHOP. SEQUIN BRAMI, £40.00, FREE PEOPLE. SATIN SKIRT WITH SPLIT, £25.99, ZARA. MONA FLAT MULES, £18.00, ASOS - FLORAL JAQUARD SUIT, £114.00, TOPSHOP. DARK GREEN FAUX FUR COLLAR, £14.99, NEW LOOK.  SATIN TOP WITH BOW, £29.99, ZARA. SEQUIN BANDANA NECKLACE, £12.00, TOPSHOP. METALLIC CULOTTES, £95.00, TOPSHOP. METAL DETAIL BLOCK HEEL LOAFER, £25.99, NEW LOOK.  RED ZEBRA PRINT PLISSE BELTED TOP, £25.00, RIVER ISLAND. SILVER MIRROR SEQUIN ONE SLEEVE CUT OUT DRESS, £65.00, RIVER ISLAND. WOODY WESTERN BUCKLE BELT, £16.00, TOPSHOP. GOLD CURVED HEEL WESTERN CHELSEA ANKLE BOOT, £40.00, MISSGUIDED - SHIMMER EFFECT SHIRT, £25.99, ZARA. BUTTONED BLAZER PLAYSUIT DRESS, £29.99, ZARA. SEQUINNED TOP, £25.99, ZARA.  RAINBOW SEQUIN JUMPSUIT, £125.00, TOPSHOP. SEQUIN METALLIC THREAD CROP T-SHIRT, £19.00, TOPSHOP. EDITORIAL TEAM
Fashion Director: Joseph Toronka Creative Director: Christopher George FASHION TEAM Styling: Michael Tong @michaelvutong & Shannon Murphy @shannunm. Photography: Will Freeman @itswillfreeman and www.itswillfreeman.com. Videography: Pau Mateu Sáez @paumateausaez and paumateusaez.com. Photography Assistant: Patrick Bradley. Hair & Makeup: Kennedy Cutter @kcutter__ and kennedycutter.com. Model: Valentina Shemelina @shemelinaaa with Elite London elitemodel.co.uk. STOCKLIST ASOS. http://www.asos.com Free People. http://www.freepeople.com Missguided. http://www.missguided.co.uk New Look. http://www.newlook.com River Island. http://www.riverisland.com Topshop. http://www.topshop.com Zara. http://www.zara.com  Review by Sara Darling Cocktails and haircuts- sounds dreamy to me! And the place to be is Blade Soho, where you get to sip cherry brandy cocktails whilst being pampered. More like a house party than a salon, this funky little place on Frith Street is the opposite of corporate, and the friendly, rather than pretentious stylists will make sure you are well at home. The listed building in central Soho, means it can’t change it’s layout, but the low ceilings and wonky stairs add to the appeal. The drinks licence means that the salon can serve alcohol to clients over 18, and the hairclubbing “club” is the perfect place to start a night out, a pep up before brunch or a Sunday afternoon chill session. When you have gossip that can’t wait, this is the ultimate pre-night out where the fun can start with your girl friends, all enjoying cocktails whilst you (or all of you) as you get preened for a big night out. With a wide range of biodynamic wines, craft beers, whiskies and signature specialties, you can have exactly what you want, rather than a just a lukewarm coffee. (Although a wide selection of coffees and speciality teas are available).. Nothing is done by halves, and the established salon / members bar has worked the system so you can get two friends in when you come for a trim/blow dry/new look. The founders are Stroo and Julia a couple who have been together for seventeen years! In fact, Julia cut musician Stroo’s hair and he came back to the salon the next day to ask her out. With super cool music, you might even be lucky to book in on an acoustic jam session night. After works drinks, date night, no decent hair salons in Surbiton? There are a million reasons why clients come along to the friendly pad on Frith street, its open seven days a week, and you can bring your pooch! No kids tho.. So for a friendly, welcoming approach to hair cutting, join the club. Oh and I recommend the Cherry Lipstick!  Blade Soho 26 FRITH ST, LONDON W1D 5LD 020 7734 4932 info@bladesoho.co.uk OPENING HOURS MON - FRI: 12PM - 9PM SAT: 11AM - 8PM SUN: 12PM - 7PM  Interview by Jas Bhachu We live in a world where everything is fast paced, everything is accessible and disposable as quick as a click of a button. Fast fashion is one of the key offenders that has been under public scrutiny over it environmental impacts. It was a great to catch up with the team over at Tonello, the family led Italian company who have been instrumental in making systematic solutions to garment finishing. We spoke with Alberto their Marketing Executive, to find out more.  You are pioneers in garment finishing technology. Could you explain to our readers you company ethos and ultimate goals in the garment industry? When we started our activity in 1981, the word ‘sustainability’ was just another word and none of our customers was interested in it. But that far-sighted vision reveals today to be the right choice: saving energy, reducing chemicals and water consumption are now absolute musts. Every processing phase realized with our technologies is documented and certified. Because transparency is a daily work in progress, not just a step in “factory life”. It is actually more of a never-ending process, which involves the organization of work and the features of our products. The All-in-One System is simply groundbreaking. The reduction in water and chemical consumption are just the start of the long list of benefits. How do you find the development process of creating such a complex system? I can only imagine how much time and dedication it takes. It was just the end (or maybe the start) of a journey that lasted for years. The All-in-one system is simply the combination of all the finishing technologies we developed over the last few years and that combined together gave life to an all-around solution. Our All-in-one system has become a reality with the arrival of ECOfree 2, being added to the already proven NoStone®, Core, and UP. The system saves energy, reducing water and chemical consumption, cutting down processing times and total production costs: respecting the environment, reducing manual labor and protecting the health of operators.
There is a lot of scrutiny on the environmental impacts of garment manufacturing in the fashion industry. Do you think sustainable production choices will be taken seriously or is this an ongoing battle that will take time to implement?
Sustainability is very trendy in the industry nowadays and there’s no company that is not promoting sustainable products. However, sustainability should be communicated in the right way to attract and influence the main players of the market. Treating the garments in a completely sustainable way is not so simple; we must take care of any aspect that goes from the processes, the technologies, the products used. In addition to this, the result should also be fashionable and original. The next step will be to educate. Consumers are more and more interested in knowing how the garments they are buying are made and produced. All the information should be communicated through labels explaining exactly how the garment was made, the chemicals used, the water consumption… more or less like a food label. Denim is undoubtedly timeless in fashion. There are many trends that come and go but denim is always a key staple. Do you have any forecasted trends in denim that we should be looking out for? Next season we will still see a great presence of ‘80s and ‘90s styles, with their worn-out looks, strong finishes and overwashed fabrics, combined with vintage logos and retro esthetics. Colored denim and dyed garments will also have a lot of momentum, especially in pastel palettes with a cooler, more contemporary feel.
Any designer that sends his models out wearing white booties has already won me over! And starting with the bottom up, Paul Costelloe’s collection for SS19 did not disappoint. His usual playful shapes consisted of pretty-in-pink and baby blue, which were reminiscent of my 80s party dresses. And the ra-ra skirts, fishtails and puffball shapes will surely add some glam to your summer wardrobe cocktail dress attire. Surprisingly he also worked in some sport-luxe with PVC leotards. But the oversized shoulders, sharp tailoring and bold cuts are enough to wow me, and I can never get too much of the eighties.
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