 Triinu Pungits: photo Riina Varol Arts Editor: Christopher George Emerging fashion designers and contemporary brands come together for the second time at WHITE MILAN, with the Estonian showroom FASHIONAVANT hosting an exquisite showcase of their designers. Piret Rätsep, co–founder of FASHIONAVANT explained; "In addition to August, Triinu Pungits and Kristel Kuslapuu who showcased with us in February, we are excited to present the collections of some new brands as well. The brand mix that we are offering represents both minimal and essential lines, but also brands with multifaceted and eclectic styles, all being sustainable and produced locally.” The impressive selection of designers showcased by fashionavant featured a breathtaking vision of the creative future fashion has to offer. Not just coming out of Estonia, but pioneering designers inspiring the global fashion industry. In recent years Estonia has shown a serious nurturing of its design talents. These talents are not only inspired by the global fashion industry, but have become a serious contender to the fashion industry. Strong attention to modern contemporary design has propelled the Estonian fashion network onto the global fashion stage.
Tanel Veenre has two lines of jewellery. The brand Tanel Veenre Jewellery is a whimsical and dreamy fashion jewellery brand. The slogan “Kingdom of Dreams” captures its essence. Tanel Veenre Contemporary Jewellery represents internationally acclaimed art jewellery. Exhibitions of his work have been held across the globe and his pieces are sold in galleries in Sweden, USA, New Zealand, Belgium, the Netherlands and Canada. Tanel Veenre is frequently invited to teach in art colleges throughout the world.
Kristel Kuslapuu is a post-renaissance knitwear designer who created her eponymous clothing brand in 2011. In 2017 Kristel begun numbering every item that she personally hand–knitted to mark them as unique pieces of art and collectors’ items. In 2018 a ready-to-wear (RTW) line was launched, which consists of machine- knitted winter necessities, as well as machine-sewn casual wear. She is a full-blown pathological maximalist who believes in very slow fashion and who gets inspired by clichés and self–irony. Her designs are known for bold colors, gender fluidity and provocative messages, while her fashion shows are better described as theatrical or performance art.
August combines natural materials with innovative design. Construction of clean forms, refined lines, and silent expression. Appreciating elegant contemporary design along with a focus on sustainability in fashion design. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified fabric mills and sustainable fabric fairs are the cornerstone of August’s fabric sourcing. August is founded by an Estonian designer, Äli Kargoja (Studio Bercot, Paris), who after gaining experience in the ateliers ofNicolas Andreas Taralis and Maison Martin Margiela, returned to Estonia to execute her vision of designing clothes.
Triinu Pungits was a finalist at the prestigious International Talent Support (ITS) fashion competition, and a semi– finalist at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères (2016). She also showcased her SS18 collection during London Fashion Week as the winner of the Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch Award. Bold yet tasteful plays of different colors, shapes, digital prints and cuts give the brand a distinctive yet tasteful face. All prints used in Triinu Pungits’s collections have been designed and created by Triinu herself. SHOWROOM fashionavant DESIGNERS August Kristel Kuslapuu Tanel Veenre Triinu Pungits Lilli Jahilo
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Article: Savannah Barthorpe Paul Bogards legendary work; “The End of Night”. The book mentions the moment Albert Einstein lit the first lightbulb and how it changed everyone’s life; however, nowadays over-used artificial lights make the night as bright as the daytime. No more beaming little stars clustered in the sky, excessive artificial lights and electricity take over to heat up the earth more and more. SIMON MO SS20 seasons key focus is the classic pyjama silhouettes, neon trimmings, contrasting colours and cuts paired with vintage blanket prints and dramatic star prints made from recycled yarn. The collection aims to bring alive the serious threats posed to nocturnal wildlife, plant life and human insomnia which have been created through artificial light pollution in the modern world.
Arts Editor: Christopher George The story lies in the details, a narrative of traditional skills blended with modern techniques,interpreted by the models and other creatives wearing the collection As ever, the workmanship of the ultra-skilled craftspeople involved in the collection has been vital. Hand embroidery, ultra-feminine hand-dyed silk couture fringing and unique knotting techniques – all made by small-scale English manufacturers - individualise every garment. Striving towards sustai ability, the tailoring is also crafted in England via traditional makers who took up the challenge to update their classic, sharp silhouettes with new techniques, materials and cuts that transcend conventional modes of masculine and feminine. Highly technical cocooning sits over sharp tailoring, while delicate silk chiffon refines formal shirts and masculine cut pants. This season unites a variety of source inspirations including pioneering American photographer Saul Leiter and Italian painter Father Constantino Ruggeri, an innovator in sacred art. But it is also built on very personal memories - an intimate reimagining of our own archives and previous collections, straddling and uniting London and Paris. This has been a chance to revisit and reframe the most poignant pieces. SHARON WAUCHOB
Arts Editor: Christopher George Photographer: Simon Armstrong Using her past to contribute to the future of fashion A-JANE presents Perception, a modern collection of asymmetrical designs brought to life using a combination of bold colours layered on more neutral tones. This season sees A-JANE staying true to it’s aesthetic by creating innovative and contemporary clothing. Primarily composed of cotton, this collection epitomises comfort, durability and quality expertly modernised with the introduction of the brand’s in-house designed fabric prints. Constantly experimenting with its own creativity A-JANE’s latest collection comprises of matte silver, deep blue and warm orange, bursting with exuberance set against black and white fabric. The strong asymmetrical design of Perception creates a unique, avant-garde silhouette. Ever the innovating designer, Alice Jane utilises modern techniques to produce 3D pleats, thus succeeding in fashioning elegant space age womenswear. A-JANE
Arts Editor: Christopher George Sunset after high noon echoes the great beauty of Indian summers. Vividly etching colours through the horizon, the last ray before the moonlight gardens emerge; the golden hour is upon us. Rocky Star’s Spring Summer 2020 collection chronicles tales of a summer day sunset in the glorious Mughal gardens of India. It paints a canvas that interplays lightening shadows against the bloom of the empress of the garden- the bougainvillea. The collection unfolds to reveal the most subtle detailing accented by Indian paisley prints; a motif reminiscent of the 18th-century Mughal textures. Reflecting baroque traces, iridescent sequins lend to the collection in gold and silver. Traditional inspiration onto western silhouettes manifest in intricate cord work and self-on-self texturing that appear both in day and eveningwear in the collection. Savoir-faire redefines contemporary elegance in pleated skirts, draped dresses and tunics alongside bomber jackets, deconstructed blazers, and T-shirts. Summer friendly silhouettes, oversized, and fuss- free are adorned with dramatic ruffles, and exaggerated collars in sheer gathered tulle, delicate satin, and Chanderi cotton. An earthy color palette of hazy beige and soil black come together with moonlight ivory, frequently punctuated by vibrant bougainvillea fuchsia.
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55modeReviewing and reporting on fashion from around the globe. Highlighting on international fashion shows, emerging and established brands and fashion interviews. Archives
February 2020
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