Article: Christopher George
Westminster MA Menswear show at LFWM features the first graduating cohort from the world’s only two-year postgraduate menswear course. Under the direction of Liliana Sanguino, these graduates have been taught by some of the most significant tutors in menswear education including Ike Rust, Matthew Miller, Simon Foxton, Charles Jeffrey, Ben Reardon, Liam Hodges, and Alex Mullins.
This years graduation students showcased an exciting range of ideas, with colour being used in dramatic and strong statements, exciting tailoring pushing the boundaries of gender identity and most excitingly, the process of renewable and recycled fabrics being used in production.
The way froward in design and production lies with the new breed of fashion designers emerging. And it's these students we should be looking at for inspiration.
Robyn Lynch's collection celebrates her Irish heritage and culture. The collection is a tribute to the community spirit and friendship that Ireland retain. Silhouettes capture a youthful attitude, drawing on memories of personal schooldays. Mixing technical sportswear fabrics with soft jersey and wool, the pieces are both striking and covetable. All fabrics and knit pieces are hand-dyed into the colours of the Irish flag.
Priya Ahluwalia's collection is inspired by the lifecycle of second-hand garments. First-hand research took Priya to both West Africa and to Panipat, India – the second-hand clothing recycling capital of the world. All fabrics for her collection have been created from patchworked second-hand clothes. Bold colours and varying textures feature throughout her exciting and multi-layered pieces. Knits contain second-hand yarn and feature intricate patterns and beaded panels. Beading was developed in India with the organisation Sewa Delhi who specialises in fair trade and positive employment for rural women.
An incredibly brave collection by a designer seeking to use renewable fabrics and ethical production. Not only are we excited by these prospects, but also on the design element, where the quality and consistence is of the highest standard.
The disintegration of beauty in contemporary society inspired James Bush’s beautifully considered menswear. Beginning with a series of paper sculptures James has developed a design technique which challenges the lines and volumes of traditional men's tailoring. The interplay between opposites; hard and soft, restraint and release, are referenced throughout the pieces. The soft drape of wool and silk contrasts with the sharp, linear silhouettes. Subtle hints of homoeroticism and a play on gender and sexuality are detected suporting a sophisticated while edgy and contemporary collection. Influences include Giorgio Armani’s tailoring and the sensuous draping found in Caravaggio’s dramatic art.
Christine Shangqian Xu
Shangqian Xu’s collection ‘World Wild Web’ is influenced by 90s techno musicians Jeff Mills and Richie Hawtin, while the styling references iconic magazine, The Face. Minimalism and contemporary art are strong references for this pared-back and elegant silhouettes for men, bringing a daring and dangerous attitude to mens design.
For more information on designers and courses visit:
Westminster MA Menswear
Article: Christopher George
Winchester School of Art Graduate Runway Show has become an international centre for ideas and innovation, have a long history going back almost 150 years.
Ranked among the top 1% of universities worldwide, with the BA show 2018 it is obvious why the universaty has such a high rating in the art and design field.
This season we have the young graduates showcasing exciting designs and pushing the boundaries on the silhouette of men and women's body form, reinventing sports wear with a degree of excitement not witnessed in recent seasons, bringing colour that is simply POPPING off the catwalk, and men's collections both wearable and exclusive.
55 picked 8 of the designers to feature in from the Winchester School of Art graduation show.
, Review: Christopher George
LONDON FASHION WEEK MENS Came to town and did not disappoint.
This season we had an expressive arrangement of designers pushing narratives within their collections, as well as gender identity being a big part of the question on the cat walk.
Loose and easy fitting designs seemed to be a trend that is holding fast we are please to see at 55HQ.
Our modern man want room to breath, move around more freely, and be able to wear some items more feminine. We are fans of this approach and are never afraid to cross the dress code, and share items from both the male and female wardrobe.
We chose 5 designers to emphasise the diversity coming through for SS19, and we love this article from our friends at Mens Hairstylists to help illustrate the point.
Romantic sensibilities are seen through exaggerated and amphorous silhouettes, flowing tulle and hints of opulent costume. The dream-like and fantastical decadent patterns, castle-like ruffles and their signature use of pearls in accessories. The collection has a clear and precise message in its defiance of sociological binary norms and aims to be gender-fluid, cross-cultural and unafraid of self-expression.
Having loved the brand since its brith, 55 are alwasy first in the line to get access to Phoebe's shows. This season a mix form men remains utilitarian with block colours and tonal breaks. Loose is the way to dress for men as we are seeing across fashion. A direction taken by Pheobe to a more sports asociation, waxed cotton, textured shirting, waffle linen, bridal tulle, denim dense linen and light cottons; what is not to fall in love with yet again from this talented designer.
Inspired by a desert at dusk, the pleasure of exploration, synthetic strobe lights, the eerie lull of a London dawn. The collection was sharp with block colours and visually textured fabrics, creating movement, graphic contrasts and a dramatic presence. Working with volume and strapping, the BERTHOLD brand is really making a mark on mens fashion.
NEW & LINGWOOD at St James's
This heritage English brands celebration of men’s style, creativity and craftsmanship which took place in the heart of St James’s. With this seasons usa of zesty colours and a more loose tailoring for a simpler casual but smart look. New & Lingwood’s Jermyn Street store offers an informal service for a bespoke look away from the exclusivity usually surrounds London Fashion Week Men’s.
Outdoorsy but not, easy-wear slick trash and flames with everything. Inspired by Donna Tartt novel The Goldfinch, Hodges new collection SS19 hovers between the eclectic and trash of the urban misguided youth dossing around Las Vegas. A mix of styles coming together from leopard prints, Hawaiian shirts and cowboy boots creating a slant on alternative dress and a relaxed but quirky approach.